Brigade de cuisine

Over spring break and again at the beginning of her summer holidays this year Alekka volunteered at the refugee camps in Calais and Dunkirk. She suggested we go there and help out for a few days on our way to the UK.

L’Auberge des Migrants is a French humanitarian group that assists in both the huge “Calais jungle” camp and the new Grande-Synthe refugee camp outside of Dunkirk. They build shelters, distribute clothing and supplies, and deliver meals. The food service aspect of the operation is supported by London-based Refugee Community Kitchen, who organize fundraisers and food donations to keep it going.

Alekka and I spent the week doing food prep at L’Auberge in Calais. I think Alekka would have preferred to work in the jungle itself, meeting people and practicing her languages (she’s studying Arabic and she’s picked up some Kurdish in the camps), but she knows how happy I am in a kitchen. She was a good sport to wash, peel, and chop with mom this time.

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We put in some long hours on our feet but we got to work with interesting people from many different countries. We were surprised to discover that the British couple peeling carrots with us were the parents of one of Alekka’s friends at LSE! The combination of industrial scale and like-minded camaraderie reminded me of the workshifts I did at my Berkeley housing co-op‘s central kitchen in the 1970s.

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I had a hard time writing this post. Like the week in March I worked at a Greek refugee reception camp (which I still have not written about after I went), it’s not that the experience  was traumatic. It’s that up close I was confronted with both the humanity and the enormity of the situation, and trying to sum up something that big and serious in a little blog post is not just difficult, but feels somehow wrong. On top of that, I also don’t want to appear in any way self-congratulatory: I am fully aware that one person chopping vegetables for week will make an infinitesimal difference in this massive humanitarian crisis.

But at the same time, I want to believe that writing about the refugee situation helps keep it in people’s consciousness, and could perhaps inspire others to help in whatever way they can.  It may be a cliche but by working together we really can make a difference. If you think you might want to pitch in at L’Auberge yourself, here is a nice video that I hope will encourage you.

 

 

 

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Calais again

The automated ticket machine offered interesting choices for our overnight train journey to France. While I would describe us as adventurous, we do have our limits. Alekka and I opted for the regular couchette for 6 women in expectation of a quiet night.

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It was a long trip with pauses in inhospitable places, but none so unwelcoming as the outskirts of Calais where new fences built by the UK now keep refugees from accessing the Chunnel.

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Calais itself seemed pretty much as I remembered it from last time except that there were far fewer taxis. We hadn’t found much to eat along the way, and by the time we finally persuaded the only cabbie in town to take us to our Airbnb we were quite famished.  Unfortunately the only restaurant in the neighborhood was closed for the night. Just when I thought that Alekka and I were going to have to split the snack-sized candy bar that one of our (non-promiscuous, thank you very much) compartment mates had given me, our kind hosts took pity and found us a delivery service. Whew. Who knew it was so hard to find something to eat in France.

I think our hosts now had us pegged as very hungry Americans because the next day they served us a gigantic breakfast. In fact, they brought us one every morning we were there.

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Le not-so-petit petit déjeuner for two

Calais had a new public art project on display in the form of big yellow plastic animals. Not quite the Burghers of Calais, but we appreciated them.

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We got plenty of exercise on the way to our volunteer work every day.

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We walked through the wild park every day but now that we were well-fed did not resort to snaring small animals.

And in the end, no shortage of good French meals.

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What we ate

We love the art, we love the little streets, we love the beautiful people, we love the language. But truth be told, the best thing about Italy just might be the food.

I know you all want to see what we ate in Umbria, so here’s a taste.

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Floating Piers

The artist Christo and his partner Jeanne-Claude (who died in 2009) have been creating temporary large-scale environmental art installations since 1961. I had the good fortune to see Running Fence in Marin County, California in 1976

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photo: christojeanneclaude.net

and The Umbrellas at Tejon Ranch in southern California in 1991.

photo: christojeanneclaude.net

photo: christojeanneclaude.net

Since Alekka and I were traveling by train from Spello to Calais, I couldn’t resist the opportunity to stop and check out Christo’s latest creation along the way.

Floating Piers was at Lake Iseo in Lombardy in northwestern Italy. Our Airbnb host met us at the train station in nearby Marone, for which we were very grateful because it was a long way up the mountain to her house.

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We got settled in and then walked back down to the town for dinner.

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The next morning we visited with our host’s adorable Jack Russell terriers, Jack and Jill.

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They have a surprise to show us…

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Aww… puppies!

It was hard to tear ourselves away, but after all, we did come here to see the Floating Piers.

Christo’s website describes the project: “From June 18 to July 3, 2016, Italy’s Lake Iseo was reimagined. The Floating Piers consisted of 100,000 square meters of shimmering yellow fabric, carried by a modular dock system of 220,000 high-density polyethylene cubes floating on the surface of the water.”  The golden fabric covered some of the streets in the town of Sulzano on the mainland, the floating piers leading to two islands in the lake, and some streets on those islands.

We took a boat from Marone out to Monte Isola, the big island in the lake. We walked around the town there where the streets were covered with fabric. Some sections were looking a little worse for wear on day 14 of the 16-day exhibition, but it was still a cool effect.

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Down by the water we learned that they were only allowing people to walk on one of the piers because of weather conditions. It seemed perfectly calm to me but those were the rules.

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Unstable.

It was very crowded on that one pier so we got some food and sat at the edge of the lake in hopes that the other piers would open.

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The piers were bright yellow and inviting and we were a bit jealous of the waterbirds who were obviously enjoying private access. But a couple of hours (and some beer, fries, and gelato) later, the guards changed the sign.

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Hurray! Piers are opening!

 

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I’m already looking forward to Christo’s next projects, Over the River and The Mastaba.

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Assisi

Just 15 minutes away from Spello by train is the town of Assisi, home of St. Francis (1181-1226). We took a day trip over there to check it out.

The train station is a bit outside of the old town, so you need to take a short bus ride up to where the interesting sites are. We started at the highest point, the Rocca Maggiore castle.

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The fortress was already there in 1173 but mostly reconstructed in 1356. Inside there is an interesting museum of medieval life. We climbed the tower and walked along the ramparts.

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We were on one of the towers when the noon bells started ringing.

We walked down through the upper part of the city to the main square.

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It was crowded with people, most of them here to see the basilica dedicated to St. Francis and all the other sites related to the life of the saint.

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I had two favorite sights in Assisi. The first was an ancient temple of Minerva that was repurposed as a Christian church in 1537 and renovated in Baroque style in the 1600s.

My other favorite was Assisi’s main attraction, the Basilica Papale di San Francesco. The basilica is the mother church for the Franciscan order of the Catholic church. Work on it was begun in 1228, the same year that St. Francis was canonized. It is full of gorgeous artwork but my favorite was the series of 28 frescoes in the upper church that depict the life of St. Francis. The paintings are traditionally attributed to Giotto but it seems that the serious art historians now say that is unlikely. Never mind, I think they are wonderful. I especially love the way the buildings look in the frescoes. They don’t let you take pictures so here is a link to the Wikipedia site.

Assisi is much bigger than Spello, with a lot more shops and restaurants catering to the tourist trade. Lots of guided bus tours coming through as well. It’s a pretty city and the sights are spectacular but I am glad we get to go home to quiet Spello.

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Collepino

The ancient paths connecting towns and villages of this region are mostly still maintained. We decided to take a walk on one of them to the tiny hill town of Collepino.

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It took us a lot longer than an hour and a half. I guess we are slow walkers.

Off we go.

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The trail follows a mostly well-preserved Roman aqueduct.

We enjoyed the wildflowers and butterflies along the way.

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Stopping to enjoy a view of Spello.

We passed through olive orchards and farms

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Our destination is in sight

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Collepino

When we arrived we were rewarded with fine views

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And a cold drink at the only cafe/bar, whose proprietor is a big fan of punk rock. Why should we be surprised?

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Other than the bartender and three ladies having coffee at the cafe, we didn’t see another living soul in the little village. A quiet place, for sure.

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On the walk home Andreas wouldn’t pose for a picture in his newspaper and rubber band hat.

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Ha! Gotcha!

 

 

 

 

 

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Hello, Spello

On Thursday night Andreas and I embarked on what promises to be another epic summer. This year’s itinerary begins with a week in Italy, after which Andreas and I will part ways for a few weeks. He’ll go to Ikaria, then to Chicago to visit our son Kosta, then on to Los Angeles where his family is. Meanwhile, our daughter Alekka (who is here in Umbria with us now) and I will make another stop in Italy, then France, then the Isle of Lewis in Scotland before flying out of London to meet up with Andreas in LA. From there we all go to Portland, Oregon, then home to Medford for a few weeks. Alekka will return to London mid-August; Andreas and I will enjoy our last two weeks of vacation relaxing in Portugal. We return to Cairo just in time to get back to work.

Our plan for Italy this time was to skip the cities and instead hole up in a small, pleasant, mildly interesting (and therefore hopefully uncrowded) town where we could spend a quiet week taking walks and eating good food.

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I can’t remember exactly how I decided on Spello, but I was looking at different hill towns in Umbria (not Tuscany, as it so popular) and it seemed like this one had everything we were looking for.

It’s on a train line, making it easy to get there and around.

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And I liked that it has limited automobile access inside the city walls; traffic is stressful, and we weren’t going to drive a car ourselves anyway. Although we saw some pretty cute cars here we wouldn’t mind taking out for a spin.

I reserved an Airbnb in the attic of a medieval building. Now here we are.

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The prehistoric Umbri lived here first. When the Romans colonized it in the first century BC they called it Hispellum and built a wall around it. There is a lot of ancient stuff here.

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Some important Renaissance artists (Pinturicchio and Perugino, for example) were here. We saw some of their work in the 20 or so churches of the town, some of which were built as early as the 11th century.  They are all filled with beautiful frescoes, paintings, and statuary.

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The old city has ancient streets and alleys that beckon the walker with no particular destination. There are shops, cafes, and views to be discovered around every turn.

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Flowers everywhere add color to the stone buildings, and there is a city-wide contest for the best decorated homes and businesses.

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The biggest festival of the year in Spello is the Infiorate, for which people create elaborate flower petal carpets overnight in honor of the Corpus Domini feast. It usually happens in May or June. It’s kind of like the Rose Bowl parade, except here priests walk on the floral creations. Ephemeral nature of earthly existence and all that. I’d like to come back to see that someday.

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This picture is from a poster in the town hall.

 

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Three part two: new beginnings

I am not a superstitious person. At least that is how I see myself, as a not-superstitious person. But I am alert to what some people would call signs. I like to think this is my folklore training; it’s a universal human tendency to look for patterns, while the attribution of meaning can be cultural or psychological (or both). When mystical sorts of things happen to me, I look for a reason. I usually find that it is my subconscious talking, as with my recent Alan Dundes encounter (incidentally, that was not the first time my deceased mentor has come back to tell me something important). But once in a while it really looks like the universe is trying hard to get my attention, and I don’t have an easy explanation.

Like this thing that also happened to me this week.

First incident: International teaching involves lots of transitions – it’s the way it is, and you kind of get used to it, but kind of not. I  went out the other night with three good friends to say goodbye to those of us who are moving on to new jobs, apartments, and so forth. We went to the most expatty of expat bars, a dim, windowless wood-paneled hole of a pub where you and your foreign friends can pretend you are somewhere else while you listen to Diana Krall crooning sad songs. Sip away at a pitcher of sweet sangria while you make plans to all meet up again in some faraway place in a year’s time.  It was grand.

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My pub buddies.

Two pitchers later, we asked for the check and the busboy came to clear the table. As he was picking up the glasses, he dropped one and it shattered, glass flying everywhere, including into my leg. It wasn’t a hospital-worthy injury but I went through several napkins and a bandage offered by the next table before I could get it to stop bleeding. It still hurts now, three days later – I think the shrapnel is still in my leg, but there was enough alcohol in that drink that I am not worried about an infection. If I develop a permanent limp I will be the only person I know with a sangria-related disability.

[I was going to insert a photo here of the big cut on my leg but thought better of it. Bet you’re glad.]

Second incident: I work in the library on the 4th floor of our school, but next year I will be in charge of both the 3rd and 4th floor libraries.  The morning after our little pub night was the last day of school. I went to work as usual, only mildly muzzy-headed from the infamous sangria. As I’m clearing my desk to get ready to go home, one of the assistants from the 3rd floor library comes up to get me to show me what happened downstairs.

The door to my new workspace fell off the hinges and shattered.

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OK, that’s something I’ve never seen before.

As I’m finishing things up in my office, I begin to feel a little uncomfortable. It’s the threes. I got attacked by a breaking wine glass last night, today the glass door to my new library is broken in a zillion pieces. That’s two…  where’s the third? And tonight we are flying out of Egypt on an airplane.

I am pretty much over my phobia about flying. I fly frequently these days  – while perfectly sober, even. But the three pattern goes deep, and it doesn’t really take all that much to bring back that old fear of airplanes – especially since even the most confident travelers I know are nervous about Egyptian airspace lately. What else is going to have to break? The answer seems almost obvious.

On the bus ride home I start to think about hedging my bets. Maybe I have some glass thing in the house that I wouldn’t miss. I could break it on purpose. When I get home I wash all the dishes, half-hoping I might drop one. No such luck.

There are some lemons in the refrigerator that won’t last until fall. I take them out and grate the peels, then squeeze the lemons. I put the zest in a baggy and the juice in a little container, then open the freezer to put them in – and –

Third incident: I have never been happy to find exploded beer bottles in my freezer until now.

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Andreas put these in the freezer to cool down quickly when we had a few friends over for my birthday Tuesday and then forgot all about them.

Postscript: Last night in a little Umbrian enoteca, over a dinner of carpaccio and lasagne ai carciofi, I tell my husband the broken glass story.  He reminds me that when someone accidentally breaks a glass in Greece, they cheer – it means a new beginning.

Of course: new jobs, new apartments, new library, the start of a holiday in Italy. And to think I was worried.

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Three part one: when the professor talks, I listen

So here’s a funny thing that happened this week.

A little background is required:  All students in the IB Diploma Program have to write an Extended Essay. It’s a pretty rigorous thing, a sort of senior paper on steroids. Every school has slightly different deadlines, but basically the students are supposed to work on this research paper throughout their junior year and finish it up the first quarter of grade 12. When they are well into their first draft, grade 11 IB students at our school have to do something called a panel. They meet with their advisor and one or two other teachers to discuss their progress and get suggestions about what to do to improve the paper.

I was on three panels this year. The last of these took place this last Monday, during the final week of school. The student was one of our high flyers, a very bright and hard-working kid, and a deep thinker. His paper was about the number three as a motif in Kafka’s Metamorphosis.  I had helped him a little with sources early on and I was excited about the topic because of the connections with folklore studies. There is a lot to say about the number three from that perspective, and I was hoping to steer him toward some resources that seem to fit well with this particular text.

The other two faculty members on the panel are literature experts and had many useful suggestions for the student about modernism. These women are erudite and intellectual. They also (to my dismay) steered our student enthusiastically toward Jung and Joseph Campbell – mysticism and all that. Which, well, is not the direction I would have gone. I come to narrative from the standpoint of the cultural anthropologists and folklorists, and Jung does not set well with that crowd.  And at this little EE panel I felt like I did a pretty poor job of presenting an alternative perspective, mostly because I didn’t want to contradict my esteemed colleagues in front of the student. But I came away wishing it had gone differently.

That night I had a dream. I was at some kind of formal event, probably an academic conference. I was standing by a low bookshelf at the edge of the room. A man, someone connected with the conference, perhaps a professor, pointed over the shelves and said to me, “there’s someone you want to talk to over there; he’s a little out of context,” and he laughed at what he seemed to regard as his little joke. I looked where he was pointing and there was my old professor and mentor from U.C. Berkeley, Alan Dundes, sitting in a chair and looking weary. He was holding a baby boy in his lap. I wanted to call to him but it was too loud and he wouldn’t be able to hear me, but I caught his eye and waved. He gave a little smile and waved back.

The next morning, I remembered this all very clearly and was even more convinced that I had let our side, the folklorist side, down.  Alan Dundes, may he rest in peace, was a Freudian all the way and had a famous contempt for Campbell, to the extent that Jungian psychologist Ginette Paris referred to his stance as an “intellectual fatwa”: “none of Dundes’s students, if they wanted to survive academically, could admit to being interested in or delighted by reading Campbell.” (Wisdom of the Psyche: Beyond Neuroscience, 207). In my case, it wasn’t a question of not admitting interest – I fully agreed with Dundes’s assessment of Campbell.

What’s more, Dundes had written a wonderful essay about the number three. It was full of three connections that could have been useful. This dream was telling me not to let it go. The baby boy was the student. I was stuck in my library. The particular words “out of context” seemed to have some kind of importance but I wasn’t sure what.

So, back at work, when I probably should have been finalizing the library inventory, I started poking around about this student’s essay.  Something in “out of context” suggested to me to look closely at the IB requirements for the extended essay. Which I did. And I found a very serious problem. Very serious, as in, the student would have failed his extended essay if he did not change his topic. And if you fail your extended essay, you don’t get an IB diploma. The upshot was that his advisor had to call him in and tell him the bad news. On the bright side, the young man took it well and he has plenty of time to do more research and rewrite the essay. It will probably still have something to do with Jung but he’ll do a good job and earn his diploma.

So….  here’s the thing. Alan Dundes saved the baby boy’s diploma. Now I don’t really believe that Alan Dundes visited me in a dream. What I believe is that when my subconscious wants to tell me something, it knows that sending Alan Dundes to deliver the message will make me listen. Alan Dundes, that old Freudian, would approve of that interpretation.

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Ms. Lorna in the conservatory with the scanner

Week 3 in the Cairo Greenhouse for Books.  I inquire periodically as to when we might expect the AC repair person.  “Two or three days, inshallah.” It’s the inshallah that gets you every time.

Last Tuesday the plant man came and declared the library greenery moribund. It’s too hot for plants in here, he tells me with hand signals. The potted plants would have to convalesce in the temperate zone downstairs.  “Take me with you!” I called, as workers wheeled the drooping herbage out on botanical gurneys. Perhaps I should work on my survival Arabic.

Meanwhile I will just try to finish the library inventory without murdering anyone. I only have to make it to Thursday.

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